Hiwatt DR-103: very basic questions

[theWalrus]

Dreams come true... I finally have the Hiwatt DR-103 and 4x12 cab ready to go.

I'm coming straight from 5W, LOWATT land... and I have a couple of very basic questions.

1. The DR103 manual says "before switching the amplifier on ensure that the standby switch is in the off position." I'm assuming DN = OFF for amp and standby. So, once the amp is on (mains UP position), I turn on standby (UP position) for a couple of minutes and then turn standby off (DN position) actual for use. Is UP = ON and is this startup procedure correct?

It could be flipped; you know, the British drive on the wrong side of the street. I don't wanna ruin the amp.

2. The normal and brilliant volumes are just channel volumes; if the master volume is low, there's no reason to worry over volume even if they are "cranked"; it's just relative to master, as I would expect. I don't wanna ruin my hearing.

The plan is to start with the attenuator maxed out, increase the master, then the norm/brill slowly.

If someone could explain those simple things to me, I'd really appreciate it. As I said, I come from LOWATT land!

Here are some pictures:

- Hiwatt DR-103: SN 4533 (not in the register; looks like it was made before 1972)
- Hiwatt SE4123: SN 8324 (not in the register; looks like it's from 1979) ---- if you have one like this to sell get in touch








(last one deserves a caption: 30dB drugstore earplugs + Dr. Z airbreak -30db temporarily; moving on to -25dB custom earplugs and -40dB attenuator. I'm not Townshend)

[ak-47]

The amp is off when both switches are up. This is when you check that amp and speakers are connected properly. You do not want to play through this beauty without connecting everything first.

Turn on the mains (down) and the pilot light comes on. The amp is now in standby but no signal is going through yet. I usually let mine sit like this a while and get toasty.

Switch the standby switch on (down) and you are ready to go. Adjust volume to taste.

Do the reverse to switch off. I usually strum some chords before putting the amp back into standby

[mhuss]

Air Brake and earplugs? Doubly careful?

--mark

[Dr.HI-TONE]

Howitzer for squirrel season

FWIW, the amp is a late 1972.

[mikhailwatt]

The plan is to start with the attenuator maxed out, increase the master, then the norm/brill slowly.

Not sure what you mean by maxed out - maximum attenuation or ???

I would recommend firing up the amp with all volumes down and the attenuator defeated.
Then, once all is operating normally, roll the volumes up a bit, engage the attenuator, crank the volumes to taste, and get yer windmill on.

You don't want the attenuator masking the sounds (sizzle, hum, bang, etc.) of a valve or resistor going belly-up on you at start-up.

[theWalrus]

The amp is off when both switches are up. This is when you check that amp and speakers are connected properly. You do not want to play through this beauty without connecting everything first.

Turn on the mains (down) and the pilot light comes on. The amp is now in standby but no signal is going through yet. I usually let mine sit like this a while and get toasty.

Switch the standby switch on (down) and you are ready to go. Adjust volume to taste.

Do the reverse to switch off. I usually strum some chords before putting the amp back into standby

Thank you so much, ak-47. I appreciate it. The procedure makes sense.

I also bumped into an article on the standby switch at the Fender website that gives further insight. There's a picture of a Fender ’57 Deluxe panel; same deal as the Hiwatt panel, but the labels are clear.


http://www.fender.com/news/the-standby-switch/

With your info, that article, and the picture, I finally get it. Thanks!

Air Brake and earplugs? Doubly careful?

--mark

Hi Mark,

Yep. Can't be too careful; hearing damage is irreversible. A little 5W combo practice amp can output over 100 dB easily; imagine a DR103. The attenuator isn't just for me. I'll say "you're welcome" next time I see my neighbors. The two combined seem like the only way to go. If the attenuator fails or something else happens, I still have the plugs on; accidents happen. I use a safe hearing chart and I usually dial amps with a little decibel meter in hand.

the amp is a late 1972.

Hi Doc, thanks for looking up the year; I wonder if that was a Dave Reeves hand-wire. Anyway, I'll add those two in the registry when I have a chance.

The plan is to start with the attenuator maxed out, increase the master, then the norm/brill slowly.

Not sure what you mean by maxed out - maximum attenuation or ???

I would recommend firing up the amp with all volumes down and the attenuator defeated.
Then, once all is operating normally, roll the volumes up a bit, engage the attenuator, crank the volumes to taste, and get yer windmill on.

You don't want the attenuator masking the sounds (sizzle, hum, bang, etc.) of a valve or resistor going belly-up on you at start-up.

Yes, I meant start with maximum attenuation, but now I see your point. Thanks for the tip.

[Dr.HI-TONE]

no the last of the DR wired amps was early summer 1970, barring a one off for an artist.

[theWalrus]

I finally tested the new rig... Hiwatt is brilliant. But, I have a feeling you all already knew that.

Thanks for the info folks. Have great weekend.