DR103 on Ebay

[Olsvik]

Thoughts on this one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-HIWATT-Cust ... dZViewItem

[mikhailwatt]

VERY CLEAN???... I suppose the case is in decent shape, but:

- Missing s/n plate!
- PT doesn't look like the original Partridge
- Extra hole drilled in the chassis (plugged)
- Mains wiring has been severely hacked
- Bulgin connector missing
- Voltage selector plug missing
- Several output valve bases have been replaced
- At least one power resistor has been replaced
- Indicator light doesn't look original

Definitely not collector material. Could be a decent player after some restoration.

[Dr.HI-TONE]

After some heavy scrutiny I believe the PT to be original. Three of the nuts securing it have not been removed.

The only date from a cap or pots that I can make out is 71-14 or 14th week of 1971
Based on my experience I would date this amp somewhere between Late 1972-mid 1974. To go out on a limb I would say late 1972-mid 1973 even, but it becomes a crap shoot. I believe the serial # was between 3000 and 5000. Edit the seller has relisted and claims date codes of 1971 on the pots and the 16+32/32+32 cap has a late 1969 date code, so I am probably a little late in my guestimate of the age of the amp. I say it is probably a late 1971-early 1972. Over priced at $2395.00

The "extra" hole in the chassis where the serial tag used to be, was there originally. It was covered by the serial tag.

Removing the bulgin and hardwiring the mains..........Why remove the Bulgin????? Bypassing the Bulgin kettle plug isn't really a bad idea if done neatly and reversibly..........(I know, I know.....I would never do it, but for the sake of safety/practicality here in North America.....whatever?)

Two power valve bases replaced.
incorrect mains lamp
it is hard to find the voltage selector plugs.
I do like these high quality RS pots that were used in the early 1970's
I don't get to bent out of shape regarding a couple of replaced resistors........the amp is atleast 34 years old! That is pretty minor in my book.

I could go on, but Mikhailwatt pretty much nailed it. probably a great player, not a collector's piece.

[Olsvik]

Hmmm, we'll see how high the price climbs then. I'm buying one to play it, after all.

[mhuss]

After some heavy scrutiny...

Why do I have this mental image of Clayton wearing a Sherlock Holmes cap while staring intently at the screen through a large magnifying glass?

--mark

[buckkillr8]

After some heavy scrutiny...

Why do I have this mental image of Clayton wearing a Sherlock Holmes cap while staring intently at the screen through a large magnifying glass?

--mark

I could see that too

[Dr.HI-TONE]

I do use a Magnifying Glass or my surgical loupes, but I don't have a Sherlock Holmes hat yet!

[OldSchoolDave]

... but I don't have a Sherlock Holmes hat yet!

Christmas is just around the corner .

Dave

[Dr.HI-TONE]

I Still have to get my HIWATT patches sewn onto my Lab coats!

That reminds me, I have some killer material I snatched to make cab covers with. My Ex had a sewing machine and that was one of the many pormises she made that she never lived up to. Anyway, I need a heavy duty sewing machine!

[Olsvik]

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Hiwatt-ampl ... dZViewItem

This one was on the 'Bay before wasn't it? The BIN seems a bit low if everything is as the guy says it is.

[mikhailwatt]

It's back - looks like somebody cleaned up the mains wiring and replaced the Bulgin socket.

[Olsvik]

A 201 with no bids? There's still 4 days left though...

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Hiwatt-DR20 ... dZViewItem

What do these usually go for compared to 103s or 504s? Any visible issues with it aside from the mods mentioned in the listing?

[OldSchoolDave]

A 201 with no bids?

Pics aren't that great, but I'd say it's worth the opening bid...

Here'a a bad pic of my DR201, for comparison:



Dave

[mhuss]

It looks like all the output coupling caps and screen resistors have been replaced, otherwise looks pretty good.

--mark