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Hi folks

For the avoidance of doubt....

Mr. John has been at me to get a proper Hylight Hiwatt for as long as I can remember .

So today I did!

Sold as spares but looking inside there isn't that much that isn't original. The fuse is blown and the seller tried another fuse he had in another STA200 and it didn't work again, but I think either the rating was wrong (2 different fuses) and also that power wiring looks a bit dodgy so I'll redo that. Also I need to sort the output wiring, get rid of those XLRs

Needs a recap too - can I use the HiTone DR201 cap kit? I'd also like to replace the power valves. What are the suggestions for KT88s? Please don't say GE, I'm not that rich

Hiwatt STA200

congrats!
I would see how it sounds before recapping as the caps look O.K.
JJ makes a good KT88
the new Russian Gold Lion KT88 is good too.
The TAD shuguang KT88 should be a good alternative also, but I don't have experience with them yet.

Dr.HI-TONE wrote:congrats!
I would see how it sounds before recapping as the caps look O.K.
JJ makes a good KT88
the new Russian Gold Lion KT88 is good too.
The TAD shuguang KT88 should be a good alternative also, but I don't have experience with them yet.

Hi Dr. - Thanks for your advice

What is your prognosis on the XLR wiring? Looks suspect to me and I desperately want that sorted prior to switching it on

Philrob1 wrote:... wiring? Looks suspect to me ...

First thing I'd do is remove all that dried out masking tape and inspect the solder joints beneath. Once assured they're o.k., I'd get some real electrical tape (or shrink tubing, if you redo the joints) on those.

Do you want to use XLR's? If not, stick some Cliff jacks back in the empty holes and wire to them.

Are you certain the GEC's need replacing? You might be pleasantly surprised...

Dave

OldSchoolDave wrote:

Philrob1 wrote:... wiring? Looks suspect to me ...

First thing I'd do is remove all that dried out masking tape and inspect the solder joints beneath. Once assured they're o.k., I'd get some real electrical tape (or shrink tubing, if you redo the joints) on those.

Do you want to use XLR's? If not, stick some Cliff jacks back in the empty holes and wire to them.

Are you certain the GEC's need replacing? You might be pleasantly surprised...

Dave

Yes, the plan of action tomorrow is to redo all of those suspect power joints. I will use heat shrink - for a proper job. What is there at the moment is proper cowboy.

Is there a drawing/schematic I could follow to wire the Cliff jacks in? It appears only the 4 ohm tap is connected with the XLRs at the moment?

Nope, the GECs could be absolutely fine, would be nice given a matched quad is over £1k...

Philrob1 wrote: Is there a drawing/schematic I could follow to wire the Cliff jacks in? It appears only the 4 ohm tap is connected with the XLRs at the moment?

I hereby yield the floor to Mark and/or Dr.HI-TONE .

Philrob1 wrote:Nope, the GECs could be absolutely fine, would be nice given a matched quad is over £1k...

That would be very nice, indeed.

Dave

I have found this picture of the output jack sequence of a DR201

They would be the same, correct??

http://ampstack.files.wordpress.com/201 ... tt-005.jpg

that is a DR203 PA head, but the jacks are the same.
wire yours like that.

Dr.HI-TONE wrote:that is a DR203 PA head, but the jacks are the same.
wire yours like that.

Will do - thanks!

As 2 of my holes have been englarved, can I wire up 2 like we see in that pic? Left Left and Right Right or do I need to make up a bracket to hold all 4 in and wire them in 4s?

My cabinets can take it, my Tonkers are rated at 150W each and I have 2

you can wire up just two

Dr.HI-TONE wrote:you can wire up just two

Thanks!

I can run just 2 KT88s to bring it down to 100 Watts? I would pull the two outer and half the Ohm setting?

Yes, you can try that also.

I have just been looking for Caps - I'd like to use F&T

I am struggling to find the 32+32uF 500v F&T in the UK...anyone know of a place to get them? I've found 32uF 500v but not 32+32..

For the Axial 100v 100uF cap, do I want Polarized or non-Polarized?

Thanks folks

Dr.HI-TONE wrote:Yes, you can try that also.

Thanks !

In the U.K. check out Audio Cap Ltd.
They are good people to do business with.