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How difficult is it, re-capping a DR103? Is it just a matter of unsoldering the old caps and re-soldering in the new ones? I have a friend with moderate solder experience and minimal experience working on Fender amps. If you guys could provide a walkthrough, is it something he and I could undertake?

Now that I think of it, there is a lot of charge stored in these caps...probably best to take it to a tech.

If you are really concerned, then it is best to take it to a tech.

if you take a pics of the original caps before unsoldering this will keep you from making mistakes when installing the new caps.

Never work on an amp with it plugged in to an electrical outlet!

Hylight HIWATT caps do discharge after 30 minutes or so. If you haven't powered the amp up in the last several hours then you are safe.

Replace one cap at a time, be patient and be careful not burn any other wires or components with the soldering iron on contact.

I re-capped my DR-505, it wasn't very hard. I just took pictures like the Doc said before hand just in case I went brain dead. Did one cap at a time, then checked, checked, and re-checked to make sure the connections were right. And then fired it up, and it sounded awesome! New caps are a must that is for sure. Your DR-103 will be more difficult however due to the extra wiring in the chassis, particularly the diodes that cover one of the caps. Patience is the key because you want it to look good and have a good electrical connection which can take some time with point to point wiring.

lffish133 wrote:Your DR-103 will be more difficult however due to the extra wiring in the chassis, particularly the diodes that cover one of the caps.

The diodes are easy enough to remove/replace, but make sure you get the orientation right.

Or you can use Dr. HIWATT's new "Retentive Contortionist Capacitor Replacement Method" to preserve the original diode solder joints.

Maybe I can remember to get some pics of that tonight when I finish up the SAP/CP103.

Or else you can unsolder the diodes completely ( take a picture first ) replace the cap and resolder the diodes.

Hmm, so there are diodes to unsolder/resolder as well? Perhaps I will take it to a tech. On the other hand, I don't like paying for things I can do myself!

Olsvik wrote:Hmm, so there are diodes to unsolder/resolder as well?

The 220μF cap on the end sits right above (or below) the 4 diodes spanning the power supply turret strips: http://home.comcast.net/~going2spain/mi ... tsleft.jpg

Kinda hard to get a soldering pencil in there, so you either have to remove/replace the diodes, or slide the cap up out of its clamp far enough (assuming there's enough slack in the leads) to get at the terminals from the top side of the chassis (rententive contortionist method). The diode ends sit in the turret slots so they're easy enough to desolder/resolder.

Dr. HIWATT perfected the "retentive" method because we couldn't bear to see those Harry Joyce red markings go up in smoke.

Ah, I see. The Retentive method sounds like something I would cook up to satisfy my OCD-leanings.

Olsvik wrote:Ah, I see. The Retentive method sounds like something I would cook up to satisfy my OCD-leanings.

Your average tech probably wouldn't lose any sleep over some vaporized ink.

Now that I think of it, you have to remove the clamp from the chassis to get at the terminals... make sure you don't mar the HJ ink (if present) on the clamp nuts.