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I am replacing the filter caps and bias cap on our head. I was going to use a 100/100 for the bias cap, the 2x50/450 I have already, and that leaves the three 220/350. I think JJ makes those caps. Is that what you guys use? CE Dist has them I think.
Thank You

F&T caps from VHR, they are the correct diameter, the JJ's are 4-5mm too thin to fit in your existing clamps.

backline wrote:that leaves the three 220/350

...and the 16+32 or 32+32.

mikhailwatt wrote:

backline wrote:that leaves the three 220/350

...and the 16+32 or 32+32.

Whoops-
Yes I missed that one. So is it pretty common to increase the filtering on that cap? I was checking Mouser but I can not find them offering any multi caps.

backline wrote:So is it pretty common to increase the filtering on that cap? I was checking Mouser but I can not find them offering any multi caps.

Everything you need can be found here - in all the right values and diameters :

http://www.vintagehiwattrestorations.co ... 1uu5fgi1c1

Dave

backline wrote:So is it pretty common to increase the filtering on that cap?

Only because the 16+32 is pretty much non-existent nowadays.

mikhailwatt wrote: Only because the 16+32 is pretty much non-existent nowadays.

Not with Dr.Hiwatt on the case :

http://www.vintagehiwattrestorations.co ... ucts_id=66

Dave

OldSchoolDave wrote:Not with Dr.Hiwatt on the case

Doc snuck one by me... I guess I should browse VHR more often!

They're not really built by F&T though, are they? Are ARS caps manufactured in China nowadays, or is it just tubes that they rebrand?

mikhailwatt wrote: Doc snuck one by me... I guess I should browse VHR more often!

Yep! Gotta get up PRETTY early in the morning to scoop the good Doctor . In fairness, those are recent additions to the VHR arsenal.

mikhailwatt wrote: They're not really built by F&T though, are they? Are ARS caps manufactured in China nowadays, or is it just tubes that they rebrand?

They are not F&T in those values. Guess it's a matter of choice. "Exact" value (given a 30% tolerance) or fine German Engineering. Dr.Hiwatt would be able to verify Country of Origin on those particular ARS caps.

Dave

they rebrand most of everything. from everywhere. Russian, chinese, JJ's, etc.etc.etc.

I have used their caps and they seem very good. The F&Ts are known to be outstanding which is why they are our "Go To" Cap.

Thanks for everybody's help, I appreciate it. If I had more money I would get that re-cap kit from VHR...
Mouser had the correct size cans for the 220/385 http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.asp ... 5-450v220a
And CE Dist has the F&T multi cap cans.
Thanks Again

You guys are right about those "snap in" caps. I should have caught that. Fortunately my service rep called me to double check, he knows I do not order PCB stuff very often. So I checked The Tube Store, and they have JJ caps that are the correct diameter. 250uf/500v

backline wrote:Mouser had the correct size cans for the 220/385 http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.asp ... 5-450v220a

The terminals on those "snap in" caps are problematic - they're just pins, not meant for soldering.

yep, I checked those out....I wish they had solder terminals!

Actually, I used snap-ins in my clone by making a "daughter board" to mount them on (therefore no clamps needed). They're much cheaper, but don't look as cool. 105C rating means they'll stand the heat better, though.





--mark

mikhailwatt wrote:

backline wrote:Mouser had the correct size cans for the 220/385 http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.asp ... 5-450v220a

The terminals on those "snap in" caps are problematic - they're just pins, not meant for soldering.

OK.
I was worried about those "snap in" caps, so I got some 500V cans from JJ that are the right diameter and value. But the Cornell Dubilier caps were already on their way from Mouser, so when they got here I took a look. I do not see what would be problematic about these caps. The "snap in" connectors are basically one half of a solder lug. So instead of having two posts to solder to there is just one. No big deal, they are not a "pin" at all, but a single sturdy post that you just have to wrap your wire around before you solder. Once the can is clamped and screwed down to the chassis, there is no stress on the connection anyway. I can think of a lot worse scenarios over the years that have never ended in failure. Cornell told me there is no reason you can not hand wire these caps. They are just manufactured to accommodate a PCB.
Good Luck