vintageHIWATTconvention.com

Thanks Ribba, I guess it's starting to look like a not so great idea.

Grr, had a nice long post written when my browser refreshed itself and wiped it… So here goes take 2: Mark, I think I might email Audio Research Corp to see if they have any real-world measurements of the heater current draw (since they use them in their hifi amps now - 250W RMS @ 0.5%THD from a sex...

Assuming they will actually fit physically (haven't checked measurements yet) my main concern is heater current... The KT120s data sheet states not less than 1.7A and not more than 1.95A vs a nominal 1.6A for a KT88 (though I have heard of KT88s drawing towards 1.8A sometimes anyway). Worst case sce...

Some better photos now available here: http://gallery.me.com/mattkg#100024 We (forum member snarfusmaximums and I) ended up replacing the screen-grid resistors with 100ohm ones and replacing V1 with a good Telefunken smooth plate and V4 with a NOS Mullard CV4024 (the rest are brand-new Tungsol 12AX7...

OK, That green wire to V1 is a ground..........????? I don't know why. I won't know for sure until I get to have a proper look, but the metal film resistors are connected between the V1 heater connections and that new ground point :roll: I am guessing in some attempt to hum-balance the heater circu...

The tonkerlites are rated 125W each. Just called the local distributor and the local RRP = :shock: :shock: :shock: Even the local trade price (which they will not sell to me for, as I don't have a registered business) is significantly higher than US prices. I will message you soon off-forum about sh...

Thanks Doc! I must admit that the front pic I first posted is the most flattering one though. What you can't see are a couple of scrapes through the tolex on the top and on one bottom corner, as well as a bit of piping missing top. It's also lost the caps on the ends of the handles somewhere along t...

Apologies for the crappy camera-phone photos in poor light... and for the missing shots of the pre-amp tube sockets. This is all that turned out reasonably from the ones I took. Will hopefully get better shots on saturday. Any idea what's going on with the additional metal-film resistors and ugly gr...

p.p.s. no serial # on the chassis either, but pots and caps date to around mid 1976, so probably a similar age to my other amp.

I received an email today informing me that the owner reluctantly accepted my offer if I was still interested in the amp. Popped down after work, opened it up and had a quick look, checked the output transformer and decided to take it. Another listen told me it was still sounding worse for wear, but...

Good News! Replacing the resistor worked. That is good news indeed. I was just about to reply and apologise for the unclear instructions regarding the output transformer secondary. Pin 3 on the tube sockets related only to the primary. The crucial thing that I forgot to mention was the fact that th...

I'm worried about the OP xformer. How can I test for that? After ensuring that the filter caps are drained and the amp is safe to work on, I'd check both sides (primary and secondary) of the output transformer with a multi-meter. If it's not open circuit or hard-shorted then check each half of the ...

Also wondering about the possibility that the celestions might be factory fitted (assuming the date-codes even match those of the amp)... would they possibly have done that either as a one-off or on request? It's possible, but I tend to doubt it. Custom fitted speakers were available, but Goodmans ...

So... this amp is still sitting in the store on consignment and it turns out that it's been there since April '11(!). Last week I made an offer of $2000AUD on it, which is taking the upper end of Dr. Hiwatt's suggested price in the US and adding what I call the "island" factor. Everything ...